How to Score

GAME

a game of tenpin bowling consists of 10 frames. A maximum of two deliveries is made in each frame, except the tenth, when three are made if the player has scores a strike or a spare in that frame.

STRIKE

A strike is scored when all pins are knocked down by the first ball rolled in a frame. It is marked with an ‘X’.

Because a strike earns ten pins plus a bonus of all the pins knocked down by the next two balls, no figure is entered until the next two balls are rolled. A strike in the 10th frame earns two extra rolls.

SPARE

A spare is scored when all the pins are knocked down with two deliveries. It is marked with a diagonal line.

Because a spare earns ten pins plus a bonus of all the pins knocked down by the next single ball, no score is entered until the first ball of the next frame is rolled. A spare in the 10th Frame earns one extra roll.

ERROR

An error (or MISS) occurs when all the pins are not knocked down with 2 balls. There is no penalty for an error, other than that of failing to gain the bonuses for a strike or a spare. When an error is made, simply add those pins knocked down to the total in the previous frame.

Selection of your Ball

Spend a few extra minutes selecting your ball. A good comfortable ball makes your game much more enjoyable and enables you to get the most out of bowlng.

WEIGHT

Select a weight which is comfortable for you, but do not attempt to bowl a ball which is too heavy or too light.

Small children should use 6lb balls. These weights are for childrens’ use only. Ladies should use a 10lb or 12lb ball, depending on their build.  Men should use 15lb or 16lb balls, unless they are extremely slight n build.

Generally speaking, the heavier the ball in relation to a person’s physique, the better they will bowl –but only if they are bowling correctly. Champions (men and ladies) usually bowl with the maximum weight of 16lb because it helps their natural swing.

When you are beginning, stay with a comfortable weight but if you assess comfort by feel, make sure the ball fits your hand –a badly fitting ball feels much heavier.

FIT

Firstly ensure that the thumb hole is large enough for your thumb to slide in and out without any ‘grab’whatsoever.

With your thumb fully in the hole, spread your hand over the ball with your middle and ring fingers across the finger holes. The creases of your middle joints should be ¼”past the innermost edge of the holes without moving your thumb.

If you are satisfied, then extract your thumb, put your middle and ring fingers in the holes up to the knuckle joint, pull back, and then insert your thumb again.

Gently squeeze the ball, pick it up and turn it over so that the weight is resting on the heel of your hand. Help support the weight with your left hand.

If you have chosen well, your palm should be fully in contact with the ball without any strain on your fingers.

Carefully give it a practice swing and see that it is still comfortable.

There are other types of grips used by bowlers, but until you have a few years experience under your belt, stay with this CONVENTIONAL grip.

House balls are usually designed for right-handed bowlers –the ring-finger is 1/8”further from the thumb hole than the middle-finger hole.

If you are left-handed, enquire whether the bowling centre has any left-handed balls.

Stance #1:

Quite a number of lady bowlers prefer this stance. The ball is held approximately level with the chin, and a few inches out from the body. If you have any difficulty maintaining firm hold of the ball during the swing, do not use this stance. 

The relatively high position of the ball in this stance creates a powerful downswing which can be used to compensate for the lack of weight in a light ball.

This same powerful downswing however, can cause the ball to pull away from your fingers as it reaches the lowest point. 

Stance #2:

This half-crouch style is sometimes used by taller bowlers and those who have difficulty swinging the ball down from a great height. The short downswing, which results in the ball having little momentum, often tempts bowlers to pull the ball back into an unnatural backswing. 

If you do decide that this is the stance you prefer, then make sure that you use a natural, short backswing. 

Stance #3:

Probably more of the proficient bowlers use this stance. The ball is held at waist level a few inches from the body. 

Note that the upper torso leans a little more forward than in the upright stance (#1). This is the stance that we recommend you commence with, and stay with if you can

The Approach & Delivery

There are several methods of making your way to the foul line. Here again you must select an approach which suits you best personally. The result however, should be smooth and easy without haste either in your swing or stride. Also note that right-handed bowlers should always finish with the left foot forward.

The most commonly used approach is the four step approach, which is explained below.

Position yourself comfortably on your starting spot.

Check that your shoulders are square to the target which would be the space between the first and second arrow and keep your eyes on it.

Hold the ball in the correct position just in front of your right hip with all its weight supported by your left hand.

Your first step is with your right foot and, in fact, it should be rather short, almost a shuffle. At the SAME time, the ball should be pushed forward and slightly down still supported by the left hand.

At the end of the first step, the left hand is dropped away, and the right wrist takes all the weight, which causes the ball to drop (not PULLED) into its ‘PENDULUM’swing alongside the body. The second step commences at this point.

Be sure that the swing is in a straight line with your target, neither out to the right nor behind your back.

When the ball is at the lowest point of its swing, you should have completed your second step on your left foot.

At the beginning of the third step, you smoothly commence acceleration by bending forward just a little whilst the ball continues back to its highest point.

The ball MUST reach this point by its own momentum, and be no higher than your shoulder.

From here you are in position for your fourth and final step, which is in fact a slide on your left foot.

Do not deliberately force yourself to slide, but simply propel yourself forward with your right foot and allow your body to slide to a halt in a straight line. Your bowling shoe has a rubber heel and simply by shifting your weight to your heel you may stop before reaching the foul line.

At the same time, the ball is swinging forward on your right side so that both the slide and the swing are working together to maintain your body square to your target.

Two points to help you with this step:

1. bend your left knee as you slide –it works as a shock absorber;
2. do not force the ball forward –allow it to swing freely.

Now to the most important part of all –THE RELEASE AND FOLLOW THROUGH. Everything up to now has been in preparation for this big moment.

Your body should be straight and the ball should reach its lowest point at the same time as your foot comes to a stop both about the same distance from the foul line.

Let it all happen –your thumb wants to come away from the ball, so let it; the ball wants to continue traveling forward, so let it; the fingers want to stay in the ball a little longer, so let them; your arm wants to continue to swing forward and upward, so let it.

All you can do is give the ball a friendly squeeze with your fingers as it goes on its way and keep everything flowing. It is permissible to lift your right foot from the boards behind you to help you balance. 

If it all goes well –great! If it does not, check these points again. If you are in difficulties, ask for help.

Review - Approach & Delivery

At all times during the delivery the ball should be swinging in a perfectly straight line, aimed at your target. It is most important that this swing be natural and completely dependant upon the weight of the ball. Do not push it or pull it, once you have released your left hand.

Gravity knows only one line –a straight one –so allow it to keep your ball swinging straight for you.

Many ladies find a heavy pressing iron is just the thing to practice with at home –just remember if you try it –don’t let it go!

Even top bowlers find that the tendency to pull the ball through the downswing creeps into their game, so don’t be surprised if you find the same thing.

The hand position at release is explained next, but always refrain from releasing the ball from the top with a turn. This release brings about a spin resulting in a dead or flat ball; one which is too easily deflected by the pins.

SPEED KILLS –both on the road and on the lanes –a slow ball will always knock over more pins than a fast ball –do not attempt extra speed!

Hand Action #1

The Straight Ball –

The straight ball does not hook or curve. It is aimed directly at the pocket. This is generally the best delivery for new bowlers.

To roll a straight ball, the ball is held with the thumb on top, pointing at the pins, and the palm of the hand directly behind the ball. The thumb is released first and the ball turned forward by lifting with the middle finger.

The follow-through must be straight ahead, and there should be a feeling of pushing the ball towards the pins.

The straight ball is delivered from the corner.

Hand Action #2

The Hook Ball –

In bowling a hook ball, as you bring the ball forward, the position of your hand should be the same as thought you were going to shake hands with the pins. The thumb leaves its hole first and the fingers apply the “work”with a sharp lift.

The hook ball is the best “working”ball –it gets the most pins and the best scores. Highly recommended once you have mastered a good approach and swing.

The hooking action of the ball is obtained from the lifting motion of the fingers from under the ball. The wrist is kept straight throughout the backswing and the delivery of the ball.

It should be cautioned that the degree of lift and turn must be tempered by the lane surface. On a lane where your normal delivery fails to hook as much as you would like, you must lift and turn a bit more.

On a lane where your normal delivery hooks too much, you must cut down on the lift and turn.

Hand Action #3

The Modified Hook Ball –

This is a most effective working delivery –particularly useful for those who experience difficulty controlling their wrist during the swing.

Commenced as a straight ball, the hand, at the time of release, is turned almost to a hook ball position. Care must be exercised not to overturn thereby creating a curve ball.

The follow through should be straight ahead and up, with a feeling of pushing the ball forward with your middle finger.

Do not attempt this delivery too early.

Hand Action #4

The Curve Ball –

The curve ball is bowled in the same manner as the hook ball. At release, the hand is brought upward and to the left.

The wide sweeping curve ball is an exaggerated hook and is not used extensively or recommended.

It is hard to control and bowlers using it are usually poor pocket bowlers and have difficulty with spares.

Avoid this delivery if you can.

Hand Action #5

The Back Up Ball –

The back-up ball (or reverse hook) ball is used today by very few good bowlers.

Usually assisted by a forced downswing (or too short backswing) and a tendency to bowl in front of the left foot. It is caused by a lifting motion with the ring finger.

The resulting clockwise spin is usually ineffective even if bowled accurately. Avoid this delivery if you can.

Picking Up Spares

Too many beginners are hypnotized by the idea of making as many strikes as possible. When they miss a strike on the first ball, they throw their second ball carelessly at the remaining pins –as if the contest were over!

A few minutes calculation, however, will show that those few pins remaining can make the difference between a 120 average and a 190 average! 190 specifically, because if you consistently knock over nine pins and then make the spare, you would score 190 –without a single strike.

In Tenpin Bowling, the idea is to knock over as many pins as possible with your first ball –if not exactly right you are going to leave pins standing. No spare is easy to convert, but there are very few that cannot be picked up with a well-placed ball.

More spares are missed every day through lack of knowledge, than by inaccurate bowling!

There are many good systems used for spare-shooting, and we recommend the following and suggest you try it first.

1. Bowl the same type of ball for every spare that you bowl for a strike –build up your consistency of delivery.
2. Aim to hit the pin nearest you first.
3. Aim into a group –not across it.
4. Only attempt difficult splits if you are very confident –or in a desperate need of a conversion – one pin over is better than two missed!
5. Learn to identify pin positions by their number.
6. As a general rule, shoot left-hand leaves from the right side of the lane, and right-hand leaves from the left side of the lane. Never aim along an edgeboard.